Mosque of Amr ibn al-As: The Crown of Mosques and Africa’s First Masjid

The Mosque of Amr ibn al-As stands as the oldest Islamic monument in Africa, established in 641 AD following the Muslim conquest of Egypt. Known as the "Crown of Mosques," it served as the spiritual and political heart of Fustat, the first Islamic capital of the continent. While it began as a simple structure made of mud bricks and palm trunks, centuries of expansions transformed it into a massive architectural landmark featuring a vast open courtyard and a famous "forest of columns" repurposed from Roman and Byzantine sites. Beyond its religious role, the mosque functioned as the region's first university and court of justice. Today, it remains a vital house of worship and a cornerstone of the Old Cairo Religious Complex, symbolizing the dawn of Islamic history in Egypt.

The Birth of Islamic Egypt

The Mosque of Amr ibn al-As is much more than a place of prayer. It represents the beginning of a new era in Egyptian history. When you visit this site, you are standing at the exact birthplace of Islamic Africa. General Amr ibn al-As led the Muslim army into Egypt in the 7th century. In 641 AD, he founded the city of Fustat. This city served as the first Islamic capital of Egypt.

Historians often call this mosque “Taj al-Jawami,” which means “The Crown of Mosques.” It earned this title because it was the first mosque ever built on the continent. For nearly 1,400 years, it has functioned as a spiritual center, a university, and a court of law. Today, it remains a massive landmark in Old Cairo. It sits just a short walk from the Church of Abu Serga, showing how different faiths have lived together for centuries.

The Story of the General and the Dove

A famous story explains why the mosque sits in its current location. According to tradition, a small bird changed the course of history.

The Miracle of the Nest

Before the final battle to capture the Fortress of Babylon, General Amr ibn al-As pitched his leather tent. While he prepared for war, a dove flew into his tent and laid an egg. Eventually, the army won the battle and prepared to move toward Alexandria. However, the General noticed the bird’s nest. He refused to disturb the dove or its egg. He ordered his soldiers to leave his tent standing exactly where it was.

From a Tent to a Temple

When the General returned from his victories, he declared the site of his tent as sacred ground. He ordered his men to build a mosque on that very spot. This legend remains a favorite among locals. It shows the compassion of the early leaders. More importantly, it explains why the mosque sits in the heart of Fustat today. Even though the original tent is gone, the mosque still honors the location of that simple act of mercy.

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Architectural Evolution: From Palm Trunks to Marble

Architectural Evolution From Palm Trunks to Marble

The mosque you see today looks very different from the original version. Over the last 1,400 years, many rulers changed and expanded the building. Each leader wanted to leave their mark on the “Crown of Mosques.”

The Simple Beginnings

In 641 AD, the mosque was a very humble building. It measured only about 25 meters long and 15 meters wide. The builders used the materials they had nearby.

  • The Walls: They built the walls using simple mud bricks.
  • The Roof: They made the roof from palm branches and mud to keep out the sun.
  • The Columns: Instead of marble pillars, they used the trunks of palm trees to hold up the roof.
  • The Floor: The floor was simply dirt covered with gravel.

There were no decorative minarets, and the interior had no complex art. It was a functional space for soldiers to gather and pray.

Growing with the Empire

As the population of Fustat grew, the mosque became too small. Consequently, different dynasties added new sections.

  • 673 AD: The Governor added four small towers to the corners. These were the first minarets in Egypt. They allowed the “Call to Prayer” to be heard across the city.
  • 827 AD: Rulers doubled the size of the mosque. They replaced the palm trunks with stone columns.
  • The Middle Ages: During this time, the mosque reached its current massive size. It now covers an area almost as large as three football fields.

The “Forest of Columns” and Islamic Design

When you walk into the main prayer hall, the first thing you notice is the massive number of pillars. People often call this the “Forest of Columns.”

Reused Roman Treasures

If you look closely at the columns, you will see they are not all the same. This is because the builders used “spolia.” They took marble and granite columns from older Roman and Byzantine buildings. This was common in the ancient world. It gave the mosque a sense of strength and beauty immediately. Each column has a different “capital” (the decorated top part), making every pillar unique.

The Mihrab and the Qibla Wall

The most important part of the mosque is the Qibla wall. This wall faces the city of Mecca.

  1. The Mihrab: This is a beautiful, arched niche in the middle of the wall. It shows the worshippers which direction to face while they pray. Artists decorated the Mihrab with gold, tiles, and carvings.
  2. The Minbar: Next to the niche, you will see a tall wooden staircase. This is the pulpit. Every Friday, the Imam climbs these steps to give a sermon to the people.

The Open Courtyard (The Sahn)

In the center of the mosque, there is a giant open-air courtyard. This space is essential for keeping the mosque cool in the Egyptian heat.

  • The Fountain: In the middle of the courtyard stands a wooden fountain. Worshippers use this to perform Wudu. This is the ritual washing of the hands, face, and feet before prayer.
  • The Arched Porches: Around the courtyard, there are four shaded walkways called “Riwaqs.” These provide a quiet place for people to sit, read the Quran, or rest in the shade.
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A Center for Law and Learning

A Center for Law and Learning

The Mosque of Amr ibn al-As was not only for prayer. It was the first “university” in Egypt. Long before Al-Azhar was built, this mosque was the most important school in North Africa.

  • The Circles of Knowledge: Teachers would sit against a column, and students would sit in a circle around them. They studied Islamic law, Arabic poetry, and grammar.
  • The Court of Justice: For centuries, judges met in the mosque to solve disputes. Because it was a holy place, people believed that witnesses would tell the truth.
  • The Library: The mosque once held thousands of handwritten books and scrolls. It was a treasure chest of information for scholars traveling from Baghdad or Morocco.

Survival Through Fire and War

The Mosque of Al-As has faced many disasters throughout history. Its survival is a miracle of engineering and dedication. The most famous event occurred in the 12th century during the time of the Crusades.

The Burning of Fustat (1168 AD)

In 1168 AD, a Crusader army led by King Amalric I of Jerusalem marched toward Cairo. The leaders of Egypt feared that the invaders would use the city of Fustat as a base. To prevent this, the Egyptian vizier, Shawar, ordered his men to burn the city to the ground.

The fire lasted for 54 days. Most of Fustat turned to ash, and the heat badly damaged the mosque. However, the core of the building survived. When the famous Muslim leader Saladin took control of Egypt shortly after, he made the mosque’s restoration a top priority. He rebuilt the walls and the prayer halls to show the strength of the Islamic state.

Earthquakes and Rebuilding

Egypt has also experienced several major earthquakes over the centuries. A massive quake in 1303 AD caused parts of the mosque to collapse. Again, the rulers of the time—the Mamluks—repaired the damage. They added new arches and reinforced the “Forest of Columns.” This constant cycle of damage and repair is why the mosque features so many different artistic styles today.

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The Mosque in the 21st Century: Restoration and Tourism

The Mosque in the 21st Century Restoration and Tourism

In recent years, the Egyptian government launched a massive project to restore the Mosque of Al-As to its former glory. This was part of a larger plan to improve the entire Fustat Historical Park area.

Modern Improvements

The recent restorations focused on both beauty and function:

  • The Floor: Workers installed high-quality marble across the courtyard.
  • Lighting: New lighting systems now illuminate the minarets at night, making the mosque visible from miles away.
  • The Ceiling: Experts cleaned the wooden carvings on the ceiling to reveal the original geometric patterns.
  • The Surrounding Area: The government cleared old buildings around the mosque to create beautiful gardens and plazas for visitors.

A Landmark for Travelers

Today, the mosque is a highlight of any trip to Old Cairo. It sits at the beginning of the “Religious Complex” (Magmaa el-Adyan). This area is unique because you can visit a mosque, several churches, and a synagogue all within a 10-minute walk. It serves as a powerful symbol of religious tolerance in Egypt.

Practical Information for Your Visit

If you plan to visit the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As, keep these simple tips in mind:

  1. Entrance Fee: Like most active mosques in Egypt, the entrance is free. However, a small tip for the person who minds your shoes at the door is customary.
  2. Dress Code: People should dress modestly. Women must cover their hair with a scarf. If you do not have one, the staff at the entrance usually provides green robes for visitors to borrow.
  3. Timing: Avoid visiting during the Friday noon prayer, as the mosque will be extremely crowded with worshippers. The best time to visit is on a weekday morning.
  4. Photography: You are allowed to take photos, but always be respectful of people who are praying. Do not use flash inside the prayer hall.

The Eternal Heart of Fustat

The Mosque of Amr ibn al-As is more than just a beautiful building. It is a timeline of Egyptian history. From its humble roots as a tent in the sand to its grand status as the “Crown of Mosques,” it has seen the world change around it.

It stood firm while Fustat burned. It grew stronger while empires rose and fell. Today, it remains a quiet place of peace in the middle of a busy city. When you walk through its forest of columns, you are walking in the footsteps of the very first Muslims to call Egypt home.

Key Takeaways

  • First in Africa: This is the continent’s oldest Islamic site.
  • Legendary Location: It stands on the spot where a dove’s nest saved a general’s tent.
  • Architectural Mix: It features Roman marble columns and Islamic arches.
  • Religious Unity: It anchors the Old Cairo Religious Complex.
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Islamic Art and Calligraphy: The Voice of the Walls

In many religions, artists use statues or paintings of people to tell stories. However, in Islamic art, you will not find images of humans or animals. Instead, the Mosque of Al-As uses two main elements to create beauty: calligraphy and geometry.

The Beauty of the Written Word

When you look at the walls near the Mihrab or along the tops of the arches, you will see flowing, artistic writing. This is Arabic calligraphy.

  • Quranic Verses: Most of the writing consists of verses from the Holy Quran. These verses remind worshippers of the mercy and power of God.
  • The Kufic Script: In the older sections of the mosque, you may see a very square, bold style of writing called Kufic. This was the earliest style of Arabic script used by the builders of Fustat.
  • Thuluth Script: In the newer, restored sections, the writing is more elegant and curved. This is the Thuluth script, which became popular during the Mamluk era.

Geometric Perfection

Islamic artists believe that geometry reflects the perfect order of the universe. Inside the mosque, you will see complex patterns of stars, hexagons, and circles.

  • The Star Patterns: The eight-pointed star is a common symbol. It represents the “Breath of the Compassionate.”
  • Infinite Design: These patterns often interlock and repeat forever. This design choice helps the worshipper think about the infinite nature of God. Because the patterns have no end, they draw the eye upward and outward.

Daily Life: A Day in the Mosque

To truly understand the “Crown of Mosques,” you must look at how people use it today. It is not a museum; it is a center for the local community.

The Five Prayers

Every day, the mosque follows the rhythm of the sun. The Adhan (Call to Prayer) rings out from the minarets five times.

  1. Fajr (Dawn): The mosque is quiet and peaceful as the first light hits the courtyard.
  2. Dhuhr (Noon) and Asr (Afternoon): Workers and shopkeepers from the nearby markets stop their work to pray together.
  3. Maghrib (Sunset) and Isha (Night): The mosque glows with modern lights, and families often gather in the courtyard.

The Friday Sermon (Jumu’ah)

Friday is the most important day of the week. Thousands of men fill the prayer hall to listen to the Khutbah (sermon). The Imam speaks about modern life, kindness, and faith. During this time, the streets around the mosque often become quiet as everyone gathers inside.

Ramadan in Fustat

The mosque truly comes alive during the holy month of Ramadan.

  • Iftar: After the sun sets, the mosque often hosts large communal meals for the people with low income.
  • Taraweeh: Every night, people stay late into the evening for special prayers. The sound of hundreds of voices chanting in unison can be heard throughout Old Cairo.
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Comparing the Mosque and the Church (Abu Serga)

Since these two monuments are neighbors, it is helpful to see how they compare. This helps visitors understand the shared history of Old Cairo.

Feature Mosque of Amr ibn al-As Church of Abu Serga
Oldest In… All of Africa (Mosque) One of the oldest in Egypt (Church)
Main Material Marble columns, stone, wood Marble columns, limestone, timber
Focus of Prayer Facing Mecca (East/Southeast) Facing the Altar (East)
Underground No (Large open courtyard) Yes (Sacred underground crypt)
Symbolism Geometry and Calligraphy Icons and Crosses

The Legacy of Fustat

The Mosque of Al-As is the last major piece of the city of Fustat that still functions. When you stand in the prayer hall, you are standing at the foundation of Islamic Cairo.

Before there were the great pyramids of Giza (as a tourist site) or the high-rise buildings of downtown, there was the simple mosque of Amr. It taught the people how to build, how to learn, and how to pray. It remains the “Mother of all Mosques” in Egypt.

By visiting both Abu Serga and the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As, you see the two lungs of Egypt. One represents the deep Christian roots of the Coptic era, and the other represents the beginning of the Islamic era. Together, they tell the full story of Cairo.

Final Visitor Checklist

  • Visit the central fountain in the courtyard.
  • Look for the different Roman “capitals” on the marble columns.
  • Read the calligraphy plaques near the main entrance.
  • Take a moment of silence in the back of the prayer hall to feel the scale of the building.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As the oldest mosque in the world?

No, it is not the oldest in the world. The oldest is the Great Mosque of Mecca (Masjid al-Haram). However, the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As is the oldest in Africa. Since its foundation in 641 AD, it has served as the starting point for the spread of Islam across the continent.

Can non-Muslims enter the mosque?

Yes, non-Muslims are welcome to visit. However, you should avoid visiting during the five daily prayer times, especially the Friday noon prayer. During these times, the mosque is reserved for worshippers. Always remember to remove your shoes before stepping onto the carpeted prayer hall.

Why does the mosque have so many different types of columns?

The mosque features a “Forest of Columns” because early builders used a method called spolia. They took marble and granite pillars from older Roman, Greek, and Byzantine buildings. This is why you will see different colors and carvings on the tops (capitals) of the columns. It makes the mosque a living museum of ancient architecture.

What is the “Legend of the Dove” associated with the mosque?

The legend says that a dove laid an egg in the tent of General Amr ibn al-As before a major battle. The General refused to move his tent because he did not want to break the egg. After the conquest, he built the mosque on that exact spot. This story explains why the mosque is located in Fustat rather than inside the walls of the Roman fortress.

Is there a dress code for tourists?

Yes. People should wear modest clothing that covers the shoulders and knees. Women must also cover their hair with a scarf. If you are not dressed appropriately, the mosque staff usually provides a long robe (called a galabeya) at the entrance for you to wear during your visit.

Where is the mosque located?

The mosque is located in Old Cairo (Coptic Cairo), specifically in the district of Fustat. It is very close to the Mar Girgis Metro Station. It sits within the “Religious Complex,” which also includes the Hanging Church and the Ben Ezra Synagogue.

Does it cost money to visit the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As?

Entrance to the mosque is free of charge. It is a public house of worship. However, it is polite to leave a small donation for the mosque’s upkeep or a small tip for the person who looks after your shoes at the entrance.

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